Watch Insights

Watch Terminology 101

A glossary of the terms you will meet when choosing, wearing and servicing a fine timepiece, compiled by Hamilton’s watch specialists.

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A – C


Alarm
A function on a watch that will make a sound or vibration at a preset time.

Altimeter
An altimeter measures altitude, or height above sea level. Recording ascent and descent, an altimeter watch is an important piece of equipment for climbers, walkers, mountaineers and, of course, aviators.

Analog/Digital (Duo) Display aka Anadigi
A watch that displays the time, both by hour and minute hands, (an analog display) and by digital digits (a digital display). This is also known as duo display or an AnaDigi watch.

Annual Calendar
A complication showing the date; day and month at the minimum. Many will also display Moonphase. This watch will correctly adjust for short and long months; however, it will not correctly account for leap year - when, once in 4 years, an additional day is added to February making it a 29 day month.

Aperture
A small opening/window found on the dials of some watches in which certain indications are given, such as the hour and the date.

Auto Repeat Countdown Timer
A countdown timer that resets itself as soon as the preset time has elapsed and starts again. The countdown is repeated continuously until the stop button is pushed.

Automatic Winding Movement
Works like a manual-wind mechanical watch, with the addition of a weighted rotor that spins as you move and winds the mainspring for you. Worn daily it stays wound; left unworn it will stop after its power reserve (usually 35–45 hours) and should be given 30–40 turns of the crown before wearing again.

Balance Spring
A very fine spring in a mechanical watch that causes the recoil of the balance wheel. The length and adjustment of its length regulates the timekeeping. This is also known as a hairspring.

Balance Wheel
The part of a mechanical watch movement that oscillates, dividing time into equal segments. This is the regulating mechanism that controls the watch's timekeeping accuracy.

Barrel
A drum that holds the Mainspring in a mechanical watch. The size of the barrel directly affects the length of the Power Reserve. Some watches feature a Double-Barrel which allows for extra long power reserve. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.

Bezel
The ring around the crystal on top of the case. Rotating bezels (one- or two-way) measure elapsed time by aligning their 12 o’clock mark with the start of an event; fixed bezels usually carry a scale such as a tachymeter.

Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that can be moved both clockwise and counter-clockwise. It is used for keeping track of elapsed time. Allowing the bezel to be rotated either way gives maximum flexibility to beginning the timing.

Bracelet
The metal strap that goes around the wearer's wrist. A watch bracelet is typically made up of flexible, separate links that can be added or removed to adjust the bracelet's length.

Breguet Spring
The spiral hairspring on which the balance swings tends to bunch on opposite sides as it expands or contracts. The constant shift in their gravity disturbs the rate of balance, and Breguet solved the problem in 1795 by upraising the last coil of the spring and giving it a smaller curve. This Breguet overcoil encouraged the spring to develop concentrically, improving the rate of the watch and reducing the wear on the balance pivots.

Bridge
A part that is fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch movement. All other parts are mounted inside the frame.

Calendar
A function that indicates day of the month, and sometimes day of the week and the year.

Caliber or Calibre
Since the early 18th Century, the calibre of a movement has denoted the position and size of its different components, notably the wheel train and the barrel. Today the term is generally used to refer to the movement, its origins or its maker.

Cambered
This refers to a domed or arched crystal.

Case
The metal housing that contains a watch's parts. Stainless steel is most commonly used. While titanium, platinum, gold and silver are also common, they will increase the price of the watch.

Chronograph
A watch with a stopwatch function. A Chronograph both measures and displays elapsed times in addition to showing conventional time. Generally, the chronograph mechanism is driven by the movement of the watch and operated by two buttons on the edge of the case which start, stop and reset the chronograph. Usually the chronograph seconds hand is the large centre seconds with sub-dials for elapsed minutes and hours - although the exact display may vary.

Chronometer
A precision watch whose movement has been tested and certified by the Swiss COSC laboratory: measured at three temperatures and in five positions over 15 days, and accurate to -4/+6 seconds a day for mechanical movements (±0.2 seconds for the few certified quartz movements).

Complication
A watch with functions other than timekeeping. A simple complication would include various chronographs, alarm, annual calendar and GMT functions, to mention a few. A watch with high complications would be called a Grand Complication and would include a perpetual calendar, Tourbillon, minute repeater or equation of time functions, and others. A watch with any additional function is called a complicated watch.

COSC
The official chronometer testing organization in Switzerland COSC "Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres".

Countdown Timer
This allows the wearer to know how much of a preset time has passed. Some Quartz versions sound a warning a few seconds before the pre-set time has elapsed.

Crown
The grooved knob on the outside of the case, used for setting the hands on a watch, and the day and date, where applicable. It is also used for winding the mainspring of a mechanical watch. The crown is also known as a winder or winding stem.

Crystal
This is the clear cover on the watch face (dial). It may be made of glass, plastic, mineral crystal or sapphire crystal (a scratch-resistant synthetic material). Its purpose is to protect the watch face.

D – H


Day/Date
A watch that shows both the day of the week and the date of the month.

Day/Night or AM/PM Indicator
A feature that indicates whether the indicated time is AM or PM. This feature can be found mostly (although not limited to) in watches with a GMT/Dual time display or a World Time Display to help know whether it is day or night in the other time zones.

Deployment/Deployant Buckle
A buckle that attaches to either side of the strap. The buckle is expandable so that the watch can be slipped on the wrist and snaps shut on the wrist. Once set to the correct size it need not be resized, thus reducing stress to the strap and elongating its life. This buckle also offers additional security while putting on and taking off the watch.

Dial
This is the face of the watch, showing the time.

Digital Display
A watch that shows the time in numbers, or digits, rather than hands and a dial. Liquid crystal display (LCD)is commonly used.

Dual Time
A watch that shows local time and the time in at least one other time zone. This is generally displayed by an additional hour hand which tracks time in a 24 hour mode. Some watches have a separate sub-dial showing the full clock at the additional Time Zone.

Duo Display
A display that shows the time both by hour and minute hands (an analogue display) and by numbers (a digital display). This is also known as AnaDigi display.

Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel
A graduated rotating bezel that is used to keep track of periods of time. The bezel can be rotated so the wearer can align the zero of the bezel with the watch's minutes or seconds hand. The elapsed time can then be read off the bezel, rather than the wearer having to perform a subtraction necessary if he used the watch's regular dial.

Engine Turning/Turned
This is a centuries-old craft that, still today, involves the use of antique machines to engrave delicate patterns on metal watch components, including cases, dials, bezels and movements. It is also known as guilloche.

EOL
This is the End-Of-Life battery indication in Quartz-powered watches. Generally the seconds begin to tick once in 4 seconds indicating that the power is low and it is time to change the battery.

Equation Of Time or EOT
A complication that shows the difference between “true” solar time and the “mean” 24-hour time we keep. Because the earth’s orbit is elliptical and its axis tilted, only four days a year are exactly 24 hours long; a shaped cam in the watch reproduces the yearly variation.

Escapement
The device at the heart of virtually all time-keeping mechanisms. It provides the impulses to maintain the oscillations of the balance wheel or pendulum which governs the rate at which the escapement lets the wheels and hands of the watch revolve.

Fly-back Chronograph
Retour-en-vol in French, a chronograph which restarts the instant it is brought back to zero without the need to stop, reset & restart the chronograph - it is particularly useful to pilots. Pressing the lower push-piece only, they can immediately reset the chronograph to time each successive leg of a search pattern. Without this facility they would have to use two push pieces to stop, return to zero and restart the chronograph while starting a new leg.

Function
A term used to describe the various different tasks a watch can perform such as chronograph and countdown timer. These are also known as complications.

Gear Train
The system of gears which transmits power from the mainspring of the watch to the escapement.

GMT Time Zone
Greenwich Mean Time, the reference against which every other time zone is set. On a watch, a GMT function shows local time and a second time zone on a 24-hour scale, so you can tell at a glance whether it is day or night there.

Gold Plating
A layer of gold that is plated onto a base metal case or bracelet to enhance its looks. The thickness of the plating is measured in microns (1000th of a mm).

Guilloche
Guilloche/Engine Turning is an engraving technique in which a very precise intricate repetitive patterns or design is mechanically etched into an underlying material with very fine detail. Specifically, it involves a technique of engine turning, called guilloche in French, after the French engineer "Guillot", who invented a machine that could scratch fine patterns and designs on metallic surfaces.

Hairspring
A very fine spring in a mechanical watch that causes the recoil of the balance wheel. The length and adjustment of its length regulate the watch's timekeeping. It is also known as a balance spring.

Helium Escape Valve
A one-way valve on professional dive watches. Divers who spend time in pressurized diving bells breathe gas mixes containing helium, whose tiny molecules work their way into the watch; the valve lets that pressure out during decompression so the crystal is not forced off.

Horology
The science of time measurement, encompassing the art of designing and constructing watches.

I – M


Index Hour Marker
A simple stick/line design hour indicator on an analog watch dial, used instead of numerals.

Jewels
Synthetic gemstones that act as bearings for the gear trains, reducing friction and wear.

Jump Hour/Minutes
Instead of a sweeping hand, a jumping display shows the hour (or minute) as a numeral in an aperture that changes instantly on the hour. Jumping hours are often paired with retrograde minutes.

Lap Timer
A function in a chronograph watch that allows the wearer to time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, the timer is stopped and then returns to zero to begin timing the next segment.

Lever Escapement
The lever divides into two pallets which lock and unlock the escape wheel teeth. The action is governed by the balance engaging the other end of the lever, the escape teeth sliding on the inclined pallets life the lever to impulse the balance.

Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
Liquid crystal display (LCD) watches show a numeric display continuously by means of the liquid held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. The numbers are made up of seven segments that form the number 8 when all are activated. They are activated by an electronic impulse.

Lugs
The arms of the watch case that hold the strap or bracelet.

Luminous
Luminous Hands and/or Hour Markers - is a standard feature on many watches. The hour markers and/or hands have a coating of "glow in the dark" which will illuminate in the dark so you can tell the time where there is insufficient light. Results vary by the amount and quality of luminous material used.

Main Plate
The base plate upon which all other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

Mainspring
The coiled spring which provides the power to drive a mechanical watch movement.

Manual Wind Movement
A Manual watch operates by manually winding the crown which winds the mainspring in the barrel, thus powering the watch. Once wound it will stay working for the specified amount of time as indicated in your manual (generally 35-45 hours).

Marine Chronometer
A highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper that is enclosed in a box and is used for determining the longitude on board a ship. Marine chronometers with mechanical movements are mounted on gimbals so they are in the horizontal position that is essential for their precision.

Measurement Conversion
A feature that allows the wearer to convert one type of measurement into another. It usually consists of a graduated scale on the bezel or dial.

Mechanical Movement
A "Mechanical Movement" is the term for watch that runs without an outside electrical source. The watch's mechanism is composed of multiple parts, gears, screws and springs. By winding the mainspring (either manual-winding or via automatic winding) the watch will begin to operate.

Micron
This is a thousandth of a millimeter and is a measurement used for the thickness of gold plating.

Minute Repeater
A watch that strikes the hours, quarters and minutes on gongs. The repeater is activated by a slide or button on the case edge. This is a highly complex achievement and increases the cost of the watch tremendously.

Mono (Single) Pusher Chronograph
A stop watch operated by a single button. While 99% of chronographs are operated by the use of two button - one to start and stop the stopwatch, the second to reset the stopwatch; a Mono Pusher complication allows for 1 button to start, stop and reset the stop-watch.

Moonphase
A window in a watch which indicates the phases of the moon through 29 1/2 days. Some Moonphase watches incorporate a correction for the extra 44 minutes per month.

Mother of Pearl
The iridescent interior of a freshwater mollusc that is often used to decorate watch dials. Its colors include milky white, blue and pink. Mother of Pearl is available in an array of colors, such as blue, pink, yellow and more.

Movement
The motor of a watch that makes it keep time and perform functions.

N – R


Numerals
Numeral (Roman and Arabic) are used to present information in the dial and sub dials.

Perpetual Calendar
A complication showing the date, day, month and leap year cycle at the minimum. Many will also display the year and Moonphase. This watch will correctly adjust for short and long months as well as 29 days of February once in 4 years.

Power Reserve Indicator
An indication of the state of wind in the main spring. A hand on the dial points to the number of hours the movement will work before it runs down. Also known as Reserve de Marche.

Pulsimeter
A scale on a chronograph which is used for measuring pulse rate.

Push-Piece
A button that is pressed to work a watch function such as a chronograph, alarm or date corrector.

Quartz Crystal
Quartz generates an electrical charge under pressure and vibrates at a precise frequency when a current is applied, which is what makes a quartz movement so accurate. The first quartz clock was built in 1927; quartz crystals for watches have been mass-produced since the early 1970s.

Quartz Movement
This is an electronic watch movement with a quartz crystal that oscillates when a current is applied to it. The power to run the watch is normally provided by a battery or a capacitor. A quartz movement is generally more accurate than a mechanical movement.

Regulator or Regulateur
A Regulator display separates the minute and hour hands onto a separate axial and sub-dial. This allows for accurate time telling at a glance without the chance of having the watch hands covering each other.

Retrograde
A watch with a retrograde display does not display the function in a circular fashion, as we are used to seeing. Rather, it sets out the functions in a linear manner. Instead of the hands going round in a circle, they travel along an arc, and when they get to the end, they jump back to the beginning.

Rotating Bezel
A bezel around the watch that can be rotated. It has various timekeeping functions as well.

Rotor
This is the oscillating part of an automatic watch that winds the mainspring.

S – W


Sapphire Crystal
A very hard, transparent synthetic sapphire used for scratch-resistant watch glasses. Chemically the same as natural sapphire, it rates 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, second only to diamond.

Screw-Down Crown
A crown that screws into a threaded tube on the case and compresses a gasket, sealing the watch against water. Essential on any watch you intend to swim with, and it also protects the crown from knocks.

Second Time Zone Indicator
An additional dial that can be set to the time in another time zone. This allows the wearer to know the time in two zones simultaneously.

Shock Absorber
A resilient bearing which takes up the shocks received by the watch's balance staff and protects its pivots from damage.

Skeleton Case
A watch case with a transparent front or back, allowing visibility of the watch's movement.

Slide Rule/Navigation Computer
A device consisting of a scale on the outer edge of a watch face which enables mathematical calculations such as fuel consumption, climbing times and converting miles into nautical miles or kilometers.

Solar Powered Batteries
Batteries in a quartz watch that are recharged via solar panels on the watch face.

Split-Seconds Chronograph/Rattrapante
A chronograph with two centre seconds hands. The extra (rattrapante) hand runs with the main chronograph hand but can be stopped on its own to record a lap or a second finishing time, then released to catch up.

Stainless Steel
A durable metal alloy that is almost rust resistant and rarely corrodes or discolors and, therefore, is highly suitable for watch case and bracelets. It is sometimes used on the case backs of watches made of other metals.

Stepping Motor
The part of a quartz analogue movement that moves the gear train and in turn moves the watch's hands.

Sterling Silver
Sterling silver is a highly reflective precious metal, which is 92.5% pure and is often used in watches and watch dials.

Swiss A.O.S.C.
A certificate of origin - a mark that identifies that a watch has been assembled in Switzerland and has components of Swiss origin.

Swiss-Made
A watch may only bear the Swiss-Made label if the assembly work of the movement and watch was started, adjusted and controlled by the manufacturer in Switzerland. Furthermore, the law requires that at least 50% of the components of the movement be manufactured in Switzerland. The case and bracelet must not be manufactured in Switzerland, however the parts must be delivered to Switzerland unassembled and be assembled in Switzerland.

Tachymeter Scale/Tachometer
Common feature in chronograph watches. Measures the speed over a predefined distance. The wearer starts the chronograph when passing the starting point and stops it when passing the finish. The wearer can read the speed in units per hour off the tachometer scale. The scale is generally engraved on the bezel or printed on the outer diameter of the dial.

Tang Buckle
A tang buckle is a traditional Loop and Pin (belt type) buckle.

Tank Watch
A rectangular watch with bars along the sides of its face. It was inspired by the tracks of tank used in World War II and designed by Louis Cartier.

Timer
A device for registering intervals of time without any indication of the time of day.

Totaliser
A mechanism that keeps track of and displays elapsed time, often on a subsidiary dial.

Tourbillon
A rotating cage that carries the balance and escapement through every position, usually once a minute, to average out the small rate errors gravity causes. One of the most demanding complications to make, and priced accordingly.

Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that turns in one direction only, usually with a ratchet. On a dive watch this is a fail-safe: if the bezel is knocked, it can only shorten the apparent remaining air time, never lengthen it.

Vibration Per Hour or VPH
This refers to the movement of an oscillating element that is limited by two extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical watch usually vibrates at a rate of five or six a second, more commonly recognized by (but not limited to) 36,000 28,800 or 18,000 vph

Water Resistance
The degree to which a watch can withstand water, stated in the manual. The rating applies to a new watch in ideal conditions; as gaskets age the resistance declines, so it should be tested every year.

Winding
This is the action of tightening the mainspring of a watch. It can be done manually, by means of the crown, or automatically, via a rotor which is made to swing by the movement of the wearer's wrist.

Winding Stem/Winding Crown
The grooved button on the outside of the case, used for setting the hands of the watch and the day and date of where applicable. It is also used for winding the mainspring of a mechanical watch. It is also known as the crown.

World Time Complication
A dial that tells the time of up to 24 time zones around the world. The names of the cities are printed on the dial. The hour in a particular zone can be read by looking at the scale next to the city that the hour hand is pointing to. The minutes are read in the normal way. The dial is usually found on the outer edge of the watch face. Watches with this function are called World Timers.

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