Close-up of a hand wearing an emerald-cut diamond engagement ring stacked with a diamond eternity band

Hamilton Jewelers · Since 1912

The Hamilton Engagement Guide

How to choose a diamond, a shape, a setting and a metal, explained the way our gemologists explain it across the counter.

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How to Choose an Engagement Ring

Choosing an engagement ring comes down to four decisions: the diamond, its shape, the setting that holds it, and the metal of the ring. Hamilton Jewelers has guided couples through those decisions since 1912, and this guide covers what we tell every client who sits down with us in Princeton or Palm Beach. Read it in order, or jump to the part you are deciding on now.

The diamond: cut, color, clarity and carat. Cut is the quality of a diamond’s proportions and finish, and it is the grade we weigh most heavily, because cut is what makes a diamond return light. A well-cut diamond looks bright from across a room; a poorly cut one of the same weight looks dull. Color grades run from D (colorless) through the near-colorless range of G to J; most engagement diamonds we set fall between D and H, and in white metals the difference between neighboring grades is nearly impossible to see. Clarity describes the inclusions inside the stone, from flawless through VVS, VS and SI; we recommend stones that are eye-clean, where nothing is visible without magnification, and we will show you under a loupe why one grade costs more than another. Carat is weight, not size: a well-cut one-carat diamond can look larger than a deeper-cut stone of the same weight.

Shape. Round brilliants return the most light and suit every setting. Ovals and pears lengthen the finger and look larger for their weight. Emerald and Asscher cuts show long, clean flashes rather than sparkle and reward higher clarity. Cushions and radiants sit between the two. The right shape is the one you keep coming back to, so we always put several side by side on the hand before talking about grades.

Setting and metal. A solitaire shows the diamond alone; a halo frames it with smaller diamonds and reads larger; a three-stone ring pairs the center with two side stones. All of the Hamilton settings, including 1912, Cherish, Embrace, Centennial and Silhouette, are made in our own workshop in platinum or 18k white, yellow and rose gold. Platinum is the most durable and the whitest; yellow and rose gold are warmer and suit lower color grades well.

Every center diamond Hamilton offers is selected by our gemologists and most carry a GIA report. When you are ready, book a consultation and we will have stones in your shape and budget waiting to compare.


Choose cut first. It is the one grade you can see from across the room.

Hamilton Gemologists

№ 01 —

The Four Cs

Cut, color, clarity and carat, and which of them you can actually see. We grade cut first, because it is what makes a diamond bright.

Cut · Color · Clarity · Carat

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Four diamond solitaire rings in emerald, pear, oval and round cuts arranged beside a vintage film camera on black-and-white photographs

№ 02 —

Choose the Shape

Round, oval, emerald, cushion or pear. Shapes look different on every hand, so we put them side by side before we talk about grades.

Round · Oval · Emerald · Cushion · Pear

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Three-stone diamond engagement ring on a hand resting against a white satin blouse

№ 03 —

Settings & Metals

Solitaire, halo or three-stone, in platinum or 18k gold. Every Hamilton setting is made in our own workshop and can be adapted to your diamond.

Solitaire · Halo · Three-Stone · Bespoke

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Princeton & Palm Beach

Compare diamonds in person with a Hamilton gemologist.

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